Guides & workshop notes
Everything here comes out of jobs we have actually done. No affiliate links, no brand rankings — just the measurements, the arithmetic and the mistakes we see most often when someone has fitted car speakers or a subwoofer themselves and is not happy with the result.
Buyer's guide · 9 min read
Coaxial or component, 91 dB or 87 dB, 4 ohms or 2 ohms. A plain-English walk through the figures on the box, which of them change what you hear in a car, and how to measure the hole in your own door before you order anything.
Buyer's guide · 10 min read
Cone area, enclosure volume and boot space, and why the 12-inch you were planning may give you less usable bass in a hatchback than a well-boxed 10. Includes the volumes we work to and what each one does to the boot.
Technical · 8 min read
Why peak wattage on the box tells you almost nothing, how to read an RMS rating at the right impedance, and the method we use to set a gain so the amplifier never clips into your speakers.
Workshop notes · 8 min read
The cheapest genuine improvement in car audio. Which layer does what, why 25 per cent coverage of the outer skin beats a full sheet, and how to seal the inner skin so the door behaves like a proper enclosure.
Workshop notes · 9 min read
Crossover points, phase, cabin gain and the one-note boom problem. How we blend a subwoofer into a front stage so the bass sounds like part of the music rather than a separate box in the boot.
Where to start
Start with door damping. It is the least exciting job in car audio and the one that changes the most, because everything else you fit is working against a panel that flexes.
Send them over. We answer enquiries ourselves, usually the same working day, and we will tell you if the honest answer is that you do not need to spend anything.